A little diversion from quilting and appliqué, here is my pattern link from Ravelry.
I chose to knit these socks using 2.25 mm DPNs US Size 1. you could size up to 2.5 mm successfully depending on yarn used.
I used most of 1 skein Belle (354 m/387 yards) by Artfil in colour Anise for the main colour A and approximately 30 m of contrast colour in “Belle” in colour Mushroom colour B.
I used a standard 64 stitches cuff down sock pattern (Ladies Medium size) but the fairisle design, worked over four stitches, adapts perfectly to 60 stitches (Ladies Small), 68 (Ladies large/Men Small size ) and 72 stitches (Men large) socks. Instructions are given for 64 stitch sock.
Cast on 64 stitches in contrast colour in the cast on method of choice. I like to hold two 2.25 mm needles together to cast on over two needles to give a nice loose cast on edge. When your 64 stitches are cast on, just slide the extra needle out before dividing 64 stitches between your four needles (16 stitches per needle). Join in the round taking care not to twist. I like to knit the last four stitches of the round onto the first needle so that should I need to use a stitch marker, it will not be between needles. I then alter the stitches between the needles for 16 stitches per needle. If you feel insecure without it, place a stitch marker to mark the beginning of round.
At the end of round one join in main colour (with a nice long tail for sewing in later) and work 2:2 rib. Knit 2 in main colour, purl 2 in contrast colour, k2 main colour, purl 2 contrast etc. Make sure you always loosely loop the unused colour at the back of the work and don’t pull tightly when changing colour. Knit 15 rounds.
Once ribbing is complete follow chart below from top down. Pattern is is worked over a four stitch repeat. Carry colour not in use loosely at back of work
Once chart is completed continue in Main colour A for length desired to top of heel flap – usually between 6 – 8 inches.
Work back and forth across 32 stitches on needles 1 and 4.
Row 1 Sl 1 knitwise, K1, *sl 1 purlwise with yarn in back, K1 repeat from * to end of row Row 2 Sl1 purlwise with yarn in front and purl to end of row.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 fifteen more times, 32 rows completed.
Row 1 Sl1 purlwise, k 17, K2tog through back loop, K1 turn Row 2 Sl1 purlwise, purl 5, p2 tog, p1, turn
Row 3: Sl1 purlwise, K6 K2tog tbl, K1 Turn
Row 4: Sl1 purlwise, p 7, p2tog, p1 turn
Continue working in this way until 18 stitches remain ending with a wrong side row.
Slip first stitch, knit across stitches of heel and then pick up and knit 16 stitches along the selvedge stitches along the side of the heel flap, knit across the 32 stitches at top of foot (needles 2 and 3) and then with fourth needle pick up and knit 16 stitches along selvedge of heel and knit 9 stitches from needle 1. Your beginning of the round is now the centre of the heel.
Knit 1 round
Begin gusset decreases as follows
Row 1, knit to last 2 stitches of needle 1, knit two stitches together, knit across needles two and three and then at beginning of needle 4 SSK, knit to end of round.
Row 2 Knit
Repeat these two rows until there are 16 stitches remaining on each needle 1 and 4.
Work in the round until foot measure desired length minus 2.5 inches less than the foot length. 1 1/2” is for the toe shaping and 1” is for the fairisle design.
Work the chart below from bottom up.
Break thread of main colour leaving a tail to sew in later and continue to work the toe in contrast colour.
Round 1 Needle 1 – knit to last three stitches, K2tog, K1: Needle 2 – K1 SSK , knit to end: Needle 3 – knit to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1: Needle 4 – K1, SSK, knit to end.
Round 2 Knit
Repeat these two rounds until only 32 stitches remain, (8 on each needle) and then repeat round one until 16 stitches remain (4 stitches on each needle).
With needle 4 knit the four stitches from needle 1 (8 stitches) and slip stitches from needle three onto needle two (8 stitches). With eight stitches on both needles hold parallel and graft stitches using Kitchener stitch.
Weave in yarn ends and block.